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For many of us, food that takes on the soul and personality of the cook is commonly described as “soul food”. This description of the character of food derived from the African American culture as an expression of our love of family and friends through cooking and sharing meals. At one point in history, food was the only way we were able to show our love and affection for each other. Growing up as a child and even as an adult, I recall my mother preparing meals of an extremely large magnitude; particularly on Sunday afternoons. She invited not only family members, but extended the bounty of her table to any neighbor or family friend who stopped by.
From the beginning of my wine journey years ago, I have had the pleasure of connecting with some remarkable winemakers whose personality and “soul” shines through the very wines they produce. I began to view wine as I have food - as an experience more so than a necessity for sustenance. Just as food can be considered “soul food,” I see wine the same way. Can a winemaker’s “soul” show through the wines they make? Of course! Up until the last decade, women winemakers were more of an exception than the rule. African American women winemakers were, to an even lesser extent. But in recent years there has been a surge in African American women who have chosen to share their souls through wine with folks like me who appreciate great wines from great people.
During a recent trip to the Bay Area California (post COVID vaccination of course), I had the pleasure of sharing an evening of good food and great wine with friends, two of which happen to be remarkable African American women, wine makers. This particular evening was unpretentious and relaxed, just like I like them. And the folks present are all successful in their own right, but were there simply to enjoy each other’s company and share good food and wine. The cuisine was simple and fresh – pizza and salad. The wines were perfect and outstanding with each subsequent bottle more fresh and spectacular than the last. Who were these wine makers you ask? They were Theodora Lee of Theopolis Vineyards and Donna Stoney of Stoney Wines.
Theodora Lee aka Theopatra Lee of Theopolis Vineyards: https://www.theopolisvineyards.com
Known as Queen of the Vineyard, “Theo” hails from Texas, also my home state. An attorney and partner of an international law firm by profession, Theo has established herself a great winemaker in the Bay Area and beyond. Her vineyard sits in the Yorkville Highlands of the Anderson Valley in Northern California. It’s situated in southeastern Mendocino County, which lends itself to some of the best Pinot Noir in the country.
Throughout our tasting, we sampled several wines and at some point, I lost count. While I enjoyed them all, there were some that left lasting impressions. We started with Theo’s Cuvée Blanc. While I am drawn more to reds, this white wine possessed the perfect characteristics of a lemon tart topped with melon fruit. The wine was rich but not buttery, and the acidity was balanced, not harsh on the palate. It was reminiscent of a warm summer afternoon in the Bay Area wine country. It was the perfect accompaniment to….well...pizza and salad because that’s what we were eating at the time. But this wine can easily be enjoyed with seared branzino or salmon with sautéed vegetables or chicken tacos and salsa. This wine is not overpowering and it drinks well by itself or with food.
Next up was the 2018 Pinot Noir from Santa Lucia Highlands. While I haven’t always been a fan of Pinot Noir early in my wine journey, I am now a lover of this varietal. When looking for something to drink during the warmer months, Pinot Noir is my go-to wine. This Pinot Noir is a winner for me. I love the deep red, dark purple stone fruit hues of this wine. Full of flavor, aromatic on the nose and gentle on the palate, this wine with its raspberry, plum and cherry notes does not disappoint. I was so impressed by this wine that it now occupies two rows in my wine refrigerator.
Last and definitely not least, the final bottle of our tasting was Theo’s 2018 Petite Syrah. Petite Syrah is bolder than Pinot Noir with aromas of dark purple to black fruit, pepper and spice. It tends to be fuller bodied and has a perfect balance of fruit and spice. This wine is fragrant and tasted of vanilla, jam and spice. While the finish is a bit heavier on the palate, it enhanced our meal perfectly as wine should.
Donna Stoney of Stoney Wines: https://www.stoneywines.co
When I first arrived at Theo's home, Donna Stoney and her daughter welcomed us in with engaging smiles and warm personalities. This was the perfect way to set off an evening of wine tasting and food. From Williamette Valley Oregon, Stoney Wines is a boutique winery that produces unique wines for both the budding wine drinker and the more experienced oenophile. At any rate, we were in for a welcome surprise as Donna treated us to her Chardonnay and Rose.
The “SisterFriends Chardonnay” immediately took me on a trip to the islands with its bright nose with hints of pineapple and lemon. It was the closest thing to champagne without actually being champagne. Donna characterizes the origin of the name of this wine as a celebration of friendship during one’s significant moments in life. In relating back to this particular evening, this wine epitomized the group that gathered at Theo’s home. It was a celebration of happiness, togetherness and appreciation among a group of friends.
Stoney’s “For Our Daughters Rose” was Springtime in a glass. With hints of bright red, zesty fruit this wine was light on the palate with hints of red berries and lemon. I was transported to a hammock on a beach with oysters on the half shell with his wine.
At the end of our day, we had cultivated new friendships, discussed ideas, dreams and enjoyed several specialty pizzas and salad from a local pizza joint in Oakland with great wines from these two great winemakers from California and Oregon.
Later that evening as we left, I pondered how wine embodies the soul of its maker just as food imparts the soul of the chef. Ultimately they both convey the love and passion that their maker shares with those who partake in them.
Theo and Donna both represent a certain presence of soul that’s inherent in their wines. They have each tremendously impacted the wine industry in their own way, paving the way for folks like me to experience the soul in wine just as I grew up eating my mother’s soul food. I look forward to more creative art from these women. Until then, drink responsibly and enthusiastically!
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